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Roofing Types

Brazen Roofing can work with all different roofing styles and materials – from repair, to full replacement, to installation and for both commercial and residential buildings.

Below is a brief list of roof and tile types as examples, as well as their pros and cons to give you some insight. Brazen Roofing is flexible and can work with any roofing type or material, so this is not an exhaustive list. Please contact us to discuss your roofing needs and Brazen Roofing can accommodate!

Asphalt/Composition Roofing

Asphalt roof tiles are low cost, easy to install, suitable for more residential roofs and fire resistant! However, they have a relatively short life expectancy, are high maintenance, and are not the most environmentally friendly.

Metal Standing Seam

Metal roofing is durable and fire retardant. They are also low maintenance, energy efficient, low weight and come in a variety of colors and styles. Metal roofs are recyclable and can be installed over an existing roof. Metal roofs do have a high initial cost and may need periodic repainting. They are also more difficult to install.

Concrete or Clay Tile

Concrete and clay tiles are long lasting, low maintenance, come in a variety of colors, and non-combustible. They are heavy, though, and some colors can fade quickly. Concrete and clay can be a bit pricier than other options, complex to install, and walking on the roof can break the tiles more easily.

Slate Tile

Slate tiles are popular for their beauty, their durability (they are long lasting), their low maintenance, and the fact that they are fireproof. However, these benefits make them more expensive and they are also heavy.

Other materials & styles include, but are not limited to:

  • Vinyl membrane
  • Rolled/flat roof
  • Metal/Aluminum shake
  • Wood shake

Please call us today for more information or with any questions.

Explore each material in detail: Architectural & Designer Shingles, Tile Roofs, Slate Roofing, Low Slope Roofs, and Metal Roofs. See how these fit into our full Residential Roofing service line.

The four types of roof shingles, and how to tell them apart

Most homeowners asking about roofing types are really asking about shingles, because that is what nine out of ten American roofs are made of. There are four distinct kinds, and the differences are larger than the showroom makes them look.

1. Three-tab shingles

A single flat layer with cut-outs that create the illusion of three separate tabs. The thinnest and cheapest asphalt shingle made, and the one most manufacturers are quietly retiring. Wind ratings are typically at the bottom of the scale, warranties are the shortest in the category, and the flat profile shows every imperfection in the decking underneath. We rarely specify these outside a rental property or a detached garage.

2. Architectural shingles (also called dimensional or laminate)

Two or more asphalt layers bonded together, which produces both the shadow line that makes a roof look like real wood shake and the mass that makes it survive wind. This is the market default and has been for two decades. Longer limited warranties, substantially better wind performance, and a roof that hides a slightly imperfect deck rather than advertising it.

3. Designer or luxury shingles

Heavier still, cut and layered to imitate slate or hand-split cedar convincingly enough that most people cannot tell from the street. The premium over architectural is real and so is the appearance. Worth it on a house whose architecture justifies it, and hard to justify on a house whose does not.

4. Impact-resistant shingles (Class 4)

Any of the above profiles built with a modified asphalt or an SBS-rubberised mat so the shingle absorbs a hail strike instead of fracturing. To earn a Class 4 rating under UL 2218, a shingle is struck twice in roughly the same spot with a two-inch steel ball dropped from twenty feet, and it fails if the back of the shingle shows any tearing, cracking or splitting. Two hits, same spot, no crack through. That is a meaningfully harder test than it sounds.

In our hail markets this is often the whole conversation. See Denver, Oklahoma City, Wichita, Columbus and Springfield.

Shingle typeConstructionTypical relative costBest case for it
Three-tabSingle layer, cut tabsLowestRentals, outbuildings, tight budgets
ArchitecturalTwo or more bonded layersBaselineAlmost every primary residence
Designer / luxuryHeavy multi-layer, slate or shake profileHighestHomes where the roof is part of the architecture
Impact-resistant (Class 4)Modified or SBS-rubberised matPremium over equivalent profileHail markets, and anywhere a carrier offers a discount

Wind ratings, and why the number on the box is not the number on your roof

Shingle wind resistance is measured by two ASTM standards, and manufacturers quote whichever one flatters the product. Both appear on spec sheets, so it is worth knowing which is which.

StandardClassWind speed
ASTM D3161Class A60 mph
ASTM D3161Class D90 mph
ASTM D3161Class F110 mph
ASTM D7158 (2016)Class Dup to 115 mph ultimate design wind speed
ASTM D7158 (2016)Class Gup to 150 mph
ASTM D7158 (2016)Class Hup to 190 mph

Here is the part that matters more than the class: every one of those ratings assumes the shingle was nailed correctly. A Class H shingle nailed above the nailing strip — high-nailed, in the trade — performs like no shingle at all, because the fastener is not passing through the double thickness and the seal strip has nothing holding it. High nailing is the single most common installation defect we find on failed roofs, and it voids the wind warranty. Ask any contractor how they verify nail placement, and ask who checks it.

Choosing by market, not by catalogue

The same shingle behaves differently depending on where it is installed. On the coast — Myrtle Beach, Charleston, Savannah, Jacksonville — wind uplift and ultraviolet load decide the answer, and the metal details fail before the field does. Inland, in Denver, Oklahoma City, Wichita and Springfield, impact rating and claim history matter more than anything on the aesthetic side. In Milwaukee the deciding factor is not the shingle at all — it is what happens at the eave in February.

For commercial buildings the material set is different entirely. Membrane and metal systems, not shingles: see commercial roofing systems for TPO, PVC, EPDM, coatings and standing seam.

How to narrow the choice

Most homeowners start by asking which roofing material is best. It is the wrong first question, because four constraints usually rule options in or out before preference gets a say.

  • Roof pitch. The single biggest constraint, and the one people are least aware of. Shingles and tile need enough slope to shed water and are not appropriate below a manufacturer-specified minimum. Low-slope and flat areas need a membrane system instead. Most homes with a porch, addition or dormer end up with two systems, which is completely normal — see low slope roofs.
  • Vinyl membrane
  • Rolled/flat roof
  • Metal/Aluminum shake
  • Wood shake

Please call us today for more information or with any questions.

Explore each material in detail: Architectural & Designer Shingles, Tile Roofs, Slate Roofing, Low Slope Roofs, and Metal Roofs. See how these fit into our full Residential Roofing service line.

The four types of roof shingles, and how to tell them apart

Most homeowners asking about roofing types are really asking about shingles, because that is what nine out of ten American roofs are made of. There are four distinct kinds, and the differences are larger than the showroom makes them look.

1. Three-tab shingles

A single flat layer with cut-outs that create the illusion of three separate tabs. The thinnest and cheapest asphalt shingle made, and the one most manufacturers are quietly retiring. Wind ratings are typically at the bottom of the scale, warranties are the shortest in the category, and the flat profile shows every imperfection in the decking underneath. We rarely specify these outside a rental property or a detached garage.

2. Architectural shingles (also called dimensional or laminate)

Two or more asphalt layers bonded together, which produces both the shadow line that makes a roof look like real wood shake and the mass that makes it survive wind. This is the market default and has been for two decades. Longer limited warranties, substantially better wind performance, and a roof that hides a slightly imperfect deck rather than advertising it.

3. Designer or luxury shingles

Heavier still, cut and layered to imitate slate or hand-split cedar convincingly enough that most people cannot tell from the street. The premium over architectural is real and so is the appearance. Worth it on a house whose architecture justifies it, and hard to justify on a house whose does not.

4. Impact-resistant shingles (Class 4)

Any of the above profiles built with a modified asphalt or an SBS-rubberised mat so the shingle absorbs a hail strike instead of fracturing. To earn a Class 4 rating under UL 2218, a shingle is struck twice in roughly the same spot with a two-inch steel ball dropped from twenty feet, and it fails if the back of the shingle shows any tearing, cracking or splitting. Two hits, same spot, no crack through. That is a meaningfully harder test than it sounds.

In our hail markets this is often the whole conversation. See Denver, Oklahoma City, Knoxville, Columbus and Springfield.

Shingle typeConstructionTypical relative costBest case for it
Three-tabSingle layer, cut tabsLowestRentals, outbuildings, tight budgets
ArchitecturalTwo or more bonded layersBaselineAlmost every primary residence
Designer / luxuryHeavy multi-layer, slate or shake profileHighestHomes where the roof is part of the architecture
Impact-resistant (Class 4)Modified or SBS-rubberised matPremium over equivalent profileHail markets, and anywhere a carrier offers a discount

Wind ratings, and why the number on the box is not the number on your roof

Shingle wind resistance is measured by two ASTM standards, and manufacturers quote whichever one flatters the product. Both appear on spec sheets, so it is worth knowing which is which.

StandardClassWind speed
ASTM D3161Class A60 mph
ASTM D3161Class D90 mph
ASTM D3161Class F110 mph
ASTM D7158 (2016)Class Dup to 115 mph ultimate design wind speed
ASTM D7158 (2016)Class Gup to 150 mph
ASTM D7158 (2016)Class Hup to 190 mph

Here is the part that matters more than the class: every one of those ratings assumes the shingle was nailed correctly. A Class H shingle nailed above the nailing strip — high-nailed, in the trade — performs like no shingle at all, because the fastener is not passing through the double thickness and the seal strip has nothing holding it. High nailing is the single most common installation defect we find on failed roofs, and it voids the wind warranty. Ask any contractor how they verify nail placement, and ask who checks it.

Choosing by market, not by catalogue

The same shingle behaves differently depending on where it is installed. On the coast — Myrtle Beach, Charleston, Savannah, Jacksonville — wind uplift and ultraviolet load decide the answer, and the metal details fail before the field does. Inland, in Denver, Oklahoma City, Knoxville and Springfield, impact rating and claim history matter more than anything on the aesthetic side. In Milwaukee the deciding factor is not the shingle at all — it is what happens at the eave in February.

For commercial buildings the material set is different entirely. Membrane and metal systems, not shingles: see commercial roofing systems for TPO, PVC, EPDM, coatings and standing seam.

How to narrow the choice

Most homeowners start by asking which roofing material is best. It is the wrong first question, because four constraints usually rule options in or out before preference gets a say.

  • Roof pitch. The single biggest constraint, and the one people are least aware of. Shingles and tile need enough slope to shed water and are not appropriate below a manufacturer-specified minimum. Low-slope and flat areas need a membrane system instead. Most homes with a porch, addition or dormer end up with two systems, which is completely normal — see low slope roofs.
  • Structure and weight. Concrete tile and slate are heavy. On a home not framed for them, the framing has to be assessed before the material is chosen rather than after.
  • How long you plan to stay. Under ten years the economics favor asphalt almost every time. Over twenty-five they favor metal, tile or slate. Between the two it becomes a judgment about cash flow and whether you mind doing this again.
  • What you are allowed to install. An HOA or a historic district can decide colors and materials for you. That approval belongs at the start of the process, not the week the crew is booked.

Once those four are settled the list is usually short, and the remaining decision is genuinely about appearance and budget.

Matching material to climate across our markets

We work in twelve markets across eleven states, and the right answer is not the same in all of them.

  • Coastal Carolinas, Georgia and Florida. Salt attacks metal fasteners and flashing before it touches the roof surface, and sustained humidity feeds the algae behind dark roof streaking. Algae-resistant shingles matter here, and so does the quality of the edge metal, whatever goes above it.
  • Denver, Parker, Oklahoma City, Springfield, Wichita and Columbus. Hail governs everything. Impact-resistant products are worth the upgrade, and metal dents rather than fracturing, which is a meaningful difference in a hail corridor. Many carriers discount premiums for an impact-resistant roof — worth asking your agent.
  • Jacksonville and Florida generally. The heaviest ultraviolet load of anywhere we work. Everything ages faster in that sun, which pushes the value toward longer-life materials and toward getting attic ventilation right.
  • Raleigh and the Triangle. Tree cover is the dominant factor. Heavy shade keeps sections of roof damp so moss takes hold, debris fills valleys, and limbs come down in ice and thunderstorms.

What actually drives the cost

Material is only one line on an estimate, and it is often not the biggest variable. What moves the number most:

  • Pitch and access. Steep roofs are slower and require additional fall protection. Tight lot lines and awkward access add labor before any material is fitted.
  • Complexity. Hips, valleys, dormers, chimneys and skylights each add cutting, flashing and time. A simple gable and a cut-up roof of the same square footage are different jobs.
  • Existing layers. Two layers of shingles roughly doubles the tear-off and disposal — see overlay versus tear-off.
  • Decking condition. Nobody knows what is under the old roof until it comes off, which is why a per-sheet replacement price belongs on your estimate.
  • The details. New flashing, proper starter strip, matched ridge cap and ventilation. These are where cheap quotes get cheap, and where roofs fail early.

How to read a roofing estimate covers the eight items most often left off a quote, and it is the most useful thing to read before comparing numbers.

Comparisons worth reading before you decide

If you would rather have the decision narrowed for your specific roof, a free roof inspection establishes pitch, deck condition and what is currently up there — which rules most of the options in or out before preference enters into it.

Choosing a roofing material: common questions

Related reading on choosing a material

What is the best roofing material?

There is no single best material. The choice is set by your roof pitch, the structure of the house, your climate, how long you plan to stay and your budget. A steep traditional roof, a low-slope porch and a house in a hail corridor all point to different answers.

Does roof pitch limit my options?

Yes, and it is the constraint homeowners are least aware of. Shingles and tile need enough slope to shed water and are not appropriate below a manufacturer-specified minimum. Low-slope and flat areas need a membrane system. Most homes with a porch or addition end up with two systems.

Which roofing material is best for hail?

Impact-resistant products, and metal generally outperforms asphalt because it dents rather than fracturing. In Denver, Parker, Oklahoma City and Springfield this is worth the upgrade, and many insurers discount premiums for an impact-resistant roof. Ask your agent about your own policy.

What is best for a coastal home?

The material matters less than the metal details. Salt attacks fasteners, flashing and edge metal before it touches the roof surface, so specification of those components is what determines how long a coastal roof lasts. Algae-resistant shingles are also worth having in humid coastal air.

Can I put a heavy material like tile or slate on my house?

Only if the framing can carry it. Concrete tile and slate are substantially heavier than asphalt, so on a home not originally built for them the structure has to be assessed before the material is chosen. That assessment comes first, not last.

What drives the cost more, material or labor?

Frequently labor and complexity rather than material. Pitch, access, the number of hips and valleys, how many existing layers have to come off and the condition of the decking underneath all move the number, and none of them change with your material choice.